Day 39 - Twillingate, Newfoundland

We woke on day 39 of our trip to an overcast morning, after an evening of rain, rain, rain.  The forecast was for possible showers in the morning and thunderstorms in the afternoon.  It started sprinkling and we had our travel briefing for Rocky Harbor in the large shed instead of outside our rig.

Would our Whale Watching trip be a problem?  We would go rain or shine (unless it was severe weather).  We ride shared to the dock and the sun came out for us.  It turned out to be a glorious morning.

Perry (the captain) and his sister Kim (the first mate) gave us a great ride.  

Kim gave us the mandatory lesson on boat safety followed by a lesson in Newfie Slang:

No H’s – only if they’re in the wrong place

T’s are silent in the middle of words

O’s are changed to A’s

TH is changed to D’s.

E’s can sometimes be I’s

Examples: Come ere and go der.   Git dat battle af beer.

Everyone is learning to listen closely.

We brought assorted treats of crumb cakes, croissants, cookies and scones along with water for the ride.  They were devoured as the mid morning snack.

The whales cooperated and after seeing a Mincke off the Bow, and the birds feeding off the fish, we came upon a Humpback and her baby.  They put on their show and the group was angling for position upstairs and downstairs for the photo ops. Most of us got some great pictures.  Another whale, calm waters, picture perfect weather and information about the area including personal stories from Kim, made for a beautiful boat ride.

Lunch after the tour ofr some at the Twillingate Adventure Tours restaurant– Moose burgers, moose wraps, chowders, cod and………...

The afternoon was free.  Some folks went to the light house.  Madi gave a class on knitting necklaces.  Many caught up on laundry and internet at the campground.

We went to the seafood processor and bought a 1KG bag of freshwater salad size shrimp for $10.  We let the group know about it and needless to say, Barry went back to get 14 more bags.

Another great day………….

Submitted by:  Barry & Terry Klein

Adventure #1

Day 38 - Twillingate, Newfoundland

2013 07 30

SPLIT PEAS and other delights....

This is our first full day in Twillingate.  Yesterday was a travel day, set up, and dinner.  Today would be a full day of touring and sight-seeing. 

We started the day with a ride share to a place called ‘Prime Berth’, which is really about life and skills in an outport, from days past, toward the present. 

Dave was our guide and co-owner of what really was a fantastic, interesting place.  Many “newfies” are very colourful in expression and tongue.  Dave was not an exception.  Our first point of interest turned out to be his father’s fishing stage. Dave had cut the stage from its’ piles and dragged it 5 miles through the sea to its’ present home. 

We had a demonstration of how cod was cleaned and prepared until the 1960’s when refrigeration and roads reached many of the outports in Newfoundland. It was the best such demonstration to date on our trip.  Dave also pointed out the method which used to be used to make the dreaded cod-liver oil.

When we left ‘Prime Berth’ we had a few hours to explore, eat lunch and meet at a local winery.  Mercedes and Jodie had lobster burgers, while I opted for the local mussels.  What a feed!

The winery tour, turned out to be a tasting, and not so much of a tour, as we have grown to expect.  It was very interesting to observe and taste various wines.  For instance, pomegranate chardonnay!  There was a great opportunity for ice cream lovers.  There were over 20 soft-serve flavours available, including 4 wine flavours.

 

Immediately following the winery, we decided to do some more sight-seeing.  We headed out through Crow Head, Sleepy Cove and toward the Long Point lighthouse.  Very scenic, and there was a TITANIC exhibit (missed it, LOL).

Early on in the evening, we met as a group once again, but this time at the Orange Hall.  The Split Peas were scheduled to entertain us (and 150 others) with the song and music of Newfoundland.  The Split Peas are a group of women who have been entertaining locals and tourists alike for 20 years.  Their show was really polished and the sound system great.  They were not in the least bashful about getting audience participation.

Submitted by:  Jim and Mercedes Wilson

Adventure #19

Day 37 - Travel Day to Twillingate, Newfoundland

Today is July 29, 2013 the 37^th day of our trip.  The sun is shining and it appears that it is going to be a beautiful day for traveling.  We are in line behind Bob and Dianne #16 to do our favorite thing before travel.

We are leaving the park at 8:20 for Twillingate.  I have searched the “ponds” on 230 for a moose – but no luck.

We have reached TCH1 – good highway.  I tried to take a picture of the sign for Terra Nova National Park – but between my eye site and Lloyd’s camera, it didn’t work out.  (I don’t think).

 We made a fuel stop in Gander and a quick trip to the Subway Shop for lunch.

Rough road I must say 340 – we arrived at Peyton’s Woods at 2:45.  30 amp service – great!

6:30 to community center for dinner and music – great time.  Hope Lloyd’s camera is working – no, bad battery.  Until next time –

Submitted by:   Lloyd and Hazel Walker

Adventure #18

Day 36 - Bona Vista, Newfoundland

Day 36.  Elliston and Port Union,

T'was a cold and dreary morning.....but we intrepid travelers put on our rain gear and headed out for Elliston anyway.  Newfoundland weather changes from one minute (literally) to the next.  The old saying, "if you don't like the weather wait five minutes, truly applies in Newfoundland.  Yesterday we were enjoying a beautiful, sunny day, when we heard a clap of thunder, followed by another, a bolt of lightning, and a downpour all within the space of ten minutes. By the time we drove back to the campground a few miles away, the sun was coming out again. Today we were not to be so lucky.  We experienced rain, wind and falling temperatures all day.

Our tour day started with a talk on the Root Cellars of Elliston.  We were told that a properly constructed root cellar maintains a humidity of 75%: to 90%, and a temperature a little above freezing all year long, regardless of the outside temperature.  There are 135 known root cellars in the Elliston area, of which, 42 have been restored.  Many of these root cellars are still in use today.  Root vegetables, such as potatoes, carrots, and turnips are stored for as long as 9 months with little or no deterioration.  We were invited to explore the Elliston root cellars at our leisure.

Elliston lost about half its population after the Cod (fishing) Moratorium in 1992.  Commercial Cod fishing, which was the only major industry on Newfoundland for generations was suspended. The tax base of Elliston became so low the town couldn't pay their public utility bill, and power was shut off to the entire community in the early 2000's.  The remaining citizens got together to determine a strategy for saving their community from abandonment.  They decided tourism, based on their many root cellars and the puffin population on their headlands, could bring much needed income in to the community.  It worked.  This summer the town is projecting 20,000 tourist visits!

After this informative presentation, we went to see the Puffin nesting grounds of Elliston. Puffins breed and nest on a small island in the area during the summer.  The rest of the year the Puffins remain at sea.  We were told they lay only one egg in a mating season, and if that egg or their chick is lost to their major predator, the seagull, they don't breed again until the following year.  According to the locals, if you are quiet and remain still, the puffins will land close by and walk within a few feet of you. We were not so lucky, the size and noise of our group apparently scared them off.  Most of us gave up after about a half hour in the cold, with high wind and driving rain.  After the majority of us left, four hearty souls in our group were able to get a few closeup pictures of these small, colorful birds.  But, at least all of us got to see them a hundred yards or so off on their sanctuary nesting ground.

After the puffins we drove to Port Union and were treated to a fabulous lunch of Cod au Gratin prepared by volunteers from the Port Union foundation. The ladies were kind enough to share their recipe with us.  I plan to prepare this dish out of the cod I caught the day before, once I return home.  The proceeds from the Museum, sponsored lunches, and gift shop go towards the restoration of the fishery buildings of Port Union.

Next, it was on to the museum, housed in the rebuilt factory of William Coaker, a man much revered by Newfoundland fishermen.  William Coaker, at the age of 13, began the Fisherman's Protective Union, which ultimately broke the cycle of physical abuse and poverty the merchant system produced. Wages and the price for fish caught by the fishermen were low, and retail prices for staples were high.  Coaker built his own fishery and ship building business.  He paid a decent wage and over time changed the existing merchant system.  Port Union, in its heyday maintained a population of about 3,500 people.  It too, after the Cod Moratorium began losing population, and now has a population of about 2100.  A new processing plant was built in the late 90's, but was destroyed by Hurricane Igor in 2009 and never rebuilt.  Many of the local families had no choice but to move to the mainland.  Those that remained or returned, are supported by jobs held for part of the year outside of Newfoundland, many of which are in the oilfields of Alberta.  A way of life is being lost along with the fishing industry in this region.  Commercial fishing still goes on in a very limited way, but cod catch quotas are so low, cod fishing can no longer support a family

The day ended with some very cold RVers attending a travel meeting in an open air structure.    Sandy Oeser gave each woman in our Caravan, a beautiful, hand knitted scarf, which we all gratefully put on.  Anyone lucky enough to travel with the Oesers (Gunter and Sandy) are traditionally treated to a brats dinner and a handmade gift by this lovely, generous couple.

Submitted by:  Jodie Smith

Adventure 17

Day 35 - Bona Vista, Newfoundland

Atlantic Cod fishing – the “Newfie Way” – large black hook on a heavy rope or twine, and over the boat it goes.  Chris Randall was our Newfie fishing guide.  He made the trip even more enjoyable!  Thanks, Chris.

The Ryan Premises and Museum, a 19^th century salt fish complex of warehouses and homes, had a very informative presentation on how the cod used to be salted in the “good ol’ days,” and marketed.

Then on to the Mockbeggar Plantation where we toured F. Gordon Bradley’s home, restored to 1939 vintage.

Here is Jim DeLong doing the chicken dance outside the restaurant where most of us were having – yes, you guessed it – chicken.

The Cape Bonavista is the most photographed light house in all of Canada.  A great spot for whales, icebergs and puffins- but you can see we had pouring down rain.

This evening we had cod that had to be dealt with- just look at all the wonderful help we had!  Lucky for them they worked for their fish.

Submitted by:  Dianne and Bob Osborne

Adventure #16