GASPE/ATLANTIC PROVINCES 2013: Day 45

Most eyelids were rather droopy as we gathered at 5:15 AM to board the bus that would take us to the ferry and then on to Labrador. When it was announced at the travel meeting that we needed to gather at that hour, there was stunned silence. Even the late risers said nothing.

But it did not take long for everyone to come to full attention when the word “moose” was shouted out. Forty two times the “moose” shout was raised on the way to the ferry and 6 times on the way home. The moose expectation was very high the entire time we were in Newfoundland. We finally had our “moose” fix.

Dan, our very fine bus driver and guide filled us in with various tidbits of history and other information concerning people and local traditions.

He informed us that the day before, a shrimp boat docked at St. Anthony with 730 tons of shrimp and yes! You read it right – 730 TONS.

He explained to us two unusual traditions unique to the area: roadside gardens and roadside wood piles. Road side gardens are seen dotted along the highway with no homes nearby, sometimes miles from human habitation. It was explained that Newfoundland has very little top soil and when the highway was cut through, the peat was piled alongside the highway. These areas are used by the locals for gardening, primarily potatoes.

The wood piles have a similar story. Any resident can request a permit to cut wood for home heating., The resident is given a specific area to cut the wood, which is brought to the roadside, cut to lengths and stacked neatly in long rows. When the snow starts to fall, the wood is transported to their homes by means of special sleds drawn by snowmobiles.

The question was asked about theft of wood and/or garden produce. We were assured that this is not an issue, that each person respects the work and property of others.

He also informed us that the 58 miles we would travel in Labrador would contain 7 communities. The largest community would have 650 inhabitants and the smallest would be 7 persons.

The huge area of Labrador has approximately 30,000 people, primarily along the southern coastlines.

We exited the ferry and made our way toward Red Bay where the black top road ends and the dirt road starts. 200 miles of dirt road takes one to a community called Cartwright, or if one takes route 510 – also a dirt road – some 375 miles later one ends up in Goose Bay and Happy Valley.

Our travel takes us through L’Anse-au-Clair – population 241; Forteau, which had its start in the fishing business in 1774-population, 477; and L’Anse Amour, population 9.

This is also the place scientists tell us is the place of burial of a young boy which dates back 7500 years ago. It raised many questions: How did these people get there? Why? What happened to them? Questions – many. Answers – none.

Point Amour takes us to the light house – a working light house. Some brave souls climb the 190 stairs to the top. Others just watch.

We finally make it to Red Bay – population 211 – have lunch at the Whalers Restaurant, visit a museum and then head back to enter the belly of the whale for our return trip to Newfoundland.

We run into trouble on the way home – a radiator hose gives way. It takes 3 men to repair the problem; 1 supervisor, 2 smokers, and one person with field glasses to watch for moose and whales.